在 ServiceModel 客户端配置部分中，找不到引用协定“TranslatorService.LanguageService”的默认终结点元素。这可能是因为未找到应用程序的配置文件，或者是因为客户端元素中找不到与此协定匹配的终结点元素。
Paris – Paris on the morning of Friday, June 24, witnessed a tremendous tour de force of modern tailoring. Its location was the runway show of Yves Saint Laurent, where the house's creative director Stefano Pilati presented the best cut clothes seen so far in the European men's collections for spring 2012, and a visual declaration of a new modern aesthetic.
This was a collection without any evident theme or particular muse, but it was still an inspired statement about contemporary dressing, a collection where Pilati had clearly worked hard to stretch the codes of men's tailoring, while also self-editing to present a clear stylistic statement.
From the opening looks the invention was evident - a gentlemanly silhouette with deconstructed shoulders and low waist, where jackets and smart frock coats were consistently cut away. Pilati added flap pockets all over the show, low down on flat Pacific blue coats, or even at the back of some bravura white colonial shorts.
His color palette was somber - anthracite, tobacco and deep blue - but never gloomy; and the addition of plaques and fabric strips at odd angles and as button covers gave each garment a clever twist.
"It's about new city style, urban sportswear and leisure," Pilati told FWD after taking a princely bow in Ikat print trousers, khaki double-breasted jacket and bizarre space age print rubber sailing boots.
It has also been a given in Europe for at least a decade that the most influential menswear show when it came to footwear wears Prada. Not after seeing YSL today, where the choice of ergonomic perforated boots, beautiful patent leather Sci Fi boots with fabric backs and some stunning hand painted snakeskin moccasins meant this show was the season's best footwear selection.
Pilati used the same abstract snakeskin print on quilted bomber jackets, before a cool finale of several tuxedo jackets over a new type of garment - a T-shirt meets vest that gave added a smack of innovative class.
This was Pilati's first show since the departure of experienced CEO Valerie Herman for a new life in New York as president of Reed Krakoff. Yet, there was a distinct air of optimism about the show.
"Sales of our women's resort collection have risen 50 to 60 percent in some markets. And the response from buyers to the pre-collection sales of this men's spring collection last week in Milan was excellent," Herman's successor as YSL CEO, Paul Deneve, told FWD after Friday's show, staged in a small, light filled art gallery beside the Palais Royal.
没有评论:
发表评论